Influence of On-Sight and Flash Climbing Styles on Advanced Climbers’ Route Completion for Bouldering

Jesús Morenas, Vicente Luis del Campo, Sergio López-García and Lucía Flores
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Jesús Morenas: Laboratory of Motor Control and Learning, Faculty of Sports Sciences, University of Extremadura, 10003 Cáceres, Spain
Vicente Luis del Campo: Laboratory of Motor Control and Learning, Faculty of Sports Sciences, University of Extremadura, 10003 Cáceres, Spain
Sergio López-García: Faculty of Education, Pontifical University of Salamanca, 37007 Salamanca, Spain
Lucía Flores: Laboratory of Motor Control and Learning, Faculty of Sports Sciences, University of Extremadura, 10003 Cáceres, Spain

IJERPH, 2021, vol. 18, issue 23, 1-12

Abstract: Route previewing has been established as a critical parameter in indoor climbing performance, as it could determine the success or failure in ascending the route. We addressed the effect of different types of previews on output climbing performance. Twenty-one advanced climbers (7b and 7c+ climbing grade) were required to complete 18 routes, rated at 6c, according to the French Rating Scale of Difficulty. Each climber previewed the route under three conditions: “No-previewing”, “video-model previewing”, and “real-model previewing”. Output climbing performance was assessed in terms of route completion. The results showed differences on output climbing performance between types of preview. Specifically, the climbers achieved more successful attempts at climbing to the “Top” of the wall when inspecting the route with the “real-model previewing” condition, compared to the other conditions of preview. On the contrary, the climbers displayed more failed attempts in climbing the route with the “on-sight” condition, compared to the “flash” styles (“video-model” and “real-model”). The preview of the route, including performance of a real/video-projected model manipulating climbing holds, seems to increase the opportunities to climb the boulder successfully, attuning climbers to information specifying ascending actions. Climbing coaches should reinforce the design of representative training, using flash styles, to promote movement solutions for route completion.

Keywords: route preview; perceptual-cognitive; climbing performance; on-sight climbing; flash climbing (search for similar items in EconPapers)
JEL-codes: I I1 I3 Q Q5 (search for similar items in EconPapers)
Date: 2021
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