Sustainability Index in Apparel: A Multicriteria Model Covering Environmental Footprint, Social Impacts, and Durability

Anabela Gonçalves, Bárbara R. Leite and Carla Silva ()
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Anabela Gonçalves: Instituto Dom Luiz, Faculdade de Ciências, Universidade de Lisboa, 1250-096 Lisboa, Portugal
Bárbara R. Leite: RDD Textiles, Rua Professor Celestino Costa, No. 110, 4755-058 Barcelos, Portugal
Carla Silva: Instituto Dom Luiz, Faculdade de Ciências, Universidade de Lisboa, 1250-096 Lisboa, Portugal

Sustainability, 2025, vol. 17, issue 17, 1-33

Abstract: Consumers are increasingly willing to choose more sustainable products, driven by affordability and sustainability considerations. However, they often face difficulties in understanding the multitude of product certifications and identifying “greenwashing” marketing claims. This highlights the need for a clear and harmonized sustainability scoring system that allows consumers to benchmark products. Sustainability encompasses three key pillars: environmental, social, and economic. Accurately scoring a product’s sustainability requires addressing a wide range of criteria within these pillars, introducing significant complexity. This study proposes a multicriteria methodology for scoring the sustainability of apparel products into an A to E label. The approach combines a life cycle assessment covering environmental impacts from “farm-to-gate”, with a social evaluation based on country-level social key performance indicators (KPIs) and factory-specific data aligned with the International Labour Organization (ILO). Additionally, the sustainability score incorporates the impact of product durability, as longer-lasting products can reduce environmental footprint and costs for consumers. The methodology is defined and validated through a case study of a white T-shirt produced with 50% recycled cotton and 50% organic cotton. The results demonstrate the comprehensive assessment of the T-shirt’s environmental and social impacts, providing a detailed sustainability score, highlighting the role of recyclability. This comprehensive sustainability scoring system aims to provide consumers with a clear, harmonized, and reliable assessment of product sustainability, empowering everyone to make informed purchasing decisions aligned with their values. It will also enable brands and retailers to calculate the sustainability score of their products, including in the scope of digital product passport, provided they can ensure traceability and transparency along the supply chain.

Keywords: life cycle assessment; key performance indicators; traceability; product sustainability index; textile; fashion; digital product passport; recyclability; circular economy (search for similar items in EconPapers)
JEL-codes: O13 Q Q0 Q2 Q3 Q5 Q56 (search for similar items in EconPapers)
Date: 2025
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