Chemoenzymatic indican for light-driven denim dyeing

Gonzalo Nahuel Bidart, David Teze, Charlotte Uldahl Jansen, Eleonora Pasutto, Natalia Putkaradze, Anna-Mamusu Sesay, Folmer Fredslund, Leila Lo Leggio, Olafur Ögmundarson, Sumesh Sukumara, Katrine Qvortrup () and Ditte Hededam Welner ()
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Gonzalo Nahuel Bidart: Technical University of Denmark
David Teze: Technical University of Denmark
Charlotte Uldahl Jansen: Technical University of Denmark
Eleonora Pasutto: Technical University of Denmark
Natalia Putkaradze: Technical University of Denmark
Anna-Mamusu Sesay: Designskolen Kolding
Folmer Fredslund: Technical University of Denmark
Leila Lo Leggio: University of Copenhagen
Olafur Ögmundarson: University of Iceland
Sumesh Sukumara: Technical University of Denmark
Katrine Qvortrup: Technical University of Denmark
Ditte Hededam Welner: Technical University of Denmark

Nature Communications, 2024, vol. 15, issue 1, 1-11

Abstract: Abstract Blue denim, a billion-dollar industry, is currently dyed with indigo in an unsustainable process requiring harsh reducing and alkaline chemicals. Forming indigo directly in the yarn through indican (indoxyl-β-glucoside) is a promising alternative route with mild conditions. Indican eliminates the requirement for reducing agent while still ending as indigo, the only known molecule yielding the unique hue of blue denim. However, a bulk source of indican is missing. Here, we employ enzyme and process engineering guided by techno-economic analyses to develop an economically viable drop-in indican synthesis technology. Rational engineering of PtUGT1, a glycosyltransferase from the indigo plant, alleviated the severe substrate inactivation observed with the wildtype enzyme at the titers needed for bulk production. We further describe a mild, light-driven dyeing process. Finally, we conduct techno-economic, social sustainability, and comparative life-cycle assessments. These indicate that the presented technologies have the potential to significantly reduce environmental impacts from blue denim dyeing with only a modest cost increase.

Date: 2024
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DOI: 10.1038/s41467-024-45749-3

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