From calico to catwalk: Addressing the UK’s enduring issue of fashion piracy

Alice Wickens

Journal of Intellectual Property Law and Practice, 2025, vol. 20, issue 2, 71-77

Abstract: This article examines the long-standing issue of fashion piracy. By drawing parallels between the experiences of 18th and 19th century British calico printers and modern-day fashion designers, it notes that, despite living in vastly different ages, both groups face similar challenges when copied.While acknowledging certain unavoidable challenges, like the ever-improving ability to make knock-offs and the challenge of defining what constitutes a ‘copy’ in the cyclical and repetitive world of fashion, it argues that having an IP system is clearly preferable to having no protection at all. However, it emphasizes that more research is needed to establish the effectiveness of IP law, and improve it, particularly the use of pre-litigation settlements.It also suggests that greater effort should be put into making IP law—particularly, design rights, which are often costly and difficult to navigate—more accessible to all fashion designers.

Date: 2025
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