Sudden wave flooding on steep rock shores: a clear but hidden danger

Henrik Kalisch (), Francesco Lagona () and Volker Roeber ()
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Henrik Kalisch: University of Bergen
Francesco Lagona: University Roma Tre
Volker Roeber: Université de Pau et des Pays de l’Adour

Natural Hazards: Journal of the International Society for the Prevention and Mitigation of Natural Hazards, 2024, vol. 120, issue 3, No 39, 3105-3125

Abstract: Abstract It is shown that very steep coastal profiles can give rise to unexpectedly large wave events at the coast. We conduct a statistical analysis of runs from a nearshore Boussinesq-type model to demonstrate that under certain wave conditions, which a casual observer would perceive as calm, the likelihood of large run-up events is uncharacteristically high. The data computed by the Boussinesq-type model show that sea states with lower overall wave steepness favor higher run-up. Under these wave conditions, more of the available wave energy reaches the shore, since less wave breaking occurs, which can create a false sense of security for beach-goers.

Keywords: Rock coast; Steep bathymetry; Wave run-up; Rayleigh distribution (search for similar items in EconPapers)
Date: 2024
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DOI: 10.1007/s11069-023-06319-w

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