Are we at a turning point in the evolution of gastronomy? Paris: an exemplary case

Christian Barr貥, Quentin Bonnard and V鲯nique Chossat

Applied Economics, 2014, vol. 46, issue 12, 1409-1419

Abstract: Over the past few years, the landscape of top-class gastronomy has empirically changed: some celebrity chefs are returning their hard-won awards to instead provide low-cost food while others work tirelessly to gain access to the inner circle of international top-class restaurants. Things are changing, but the direction is unclear. To analyse the situation, we took the case of French Parisian gastronomy -- because it has been the main model for world gastronomy. Our study of it focuses on the Michelin Guide selection, covering the 60-year period 1950--2012. We then applied multiple correspondence analysis to establish the profiles of the Parisian restaurants and to find out whether these profiles have evolved. This article shows that a turning point has clearly been reached and that gastronomic pluralism is on the rise -- to the detriment of the hegemony of elitist gastronomy.

Date: 2014
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DOI: 10.1080/00036846.2013.875110

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