Hanging ability in climbing: an approach by finger hangs on adjusted depth edges in advanced and elite sport climbers

Pedro Bergua, Jesús Montero-Marin, Alejandro Gomez-Bruton and José Antonio Casajús

International Journal of Performance Analysis in Sport, 2018, vol. 18, issue 3, 437-450

Abstract: Hanging ability on small depth edges is one of the most limiting factors in climbing. The aim of this study was to assess the reliability and validity of a hanging ability indicator measured on an adjusted depth edge. Forty voluntary sport climbers (34 men) were divided into an advanced group (AG; n = 22) and an elite group (EG; n = 18). Climbers performed three sustained finger tests following a test–retest design: (a) maximum hanging time on a 14-mm edge depth (MHT_14), (b) minimum edge depth in which climbers could hang for 40 s exactly (MED_40) and (c) maximum added weight test on the MED_40 edge depth (MAW_5). EG performed better than AG in all tests. The regression analyses showed that the MHT_14 test and MAW_5 test explained a 35% and 69% of the climbing sport level in AG and EG, respectively. All the tests were reliable (ICC3,1 values ranging from 0.89 to 1.00). The MAW_5 and MHT_14 tests demonstrated to be valid and reliable hanging ability indicators for EG and AG, respectively. The measurement of hanging ability on adjusted depth edges might be a key factor in elite climbers, but not necessary in lower level climbers.

Date: 2018
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DOI: 10.1080/24748668.2018.1486115

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