„Vinum regnum, rex vinorum” Royal and Cameral Vineyard Possession in the Tokaj Estate in the 18th Century (Reforms, Viticulture, Wine Treatment, and Their Implications)

Attila Ulrich
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Attila Ulrich: University of Nyíregyháza

No 293, Working Papers from European Historical Economics Society (EHES)

Abstract: „There is scarcely a man of sense and knowledge who would dare to question the supremacy of Tokaji wines over all other European wines.” - Selbstherr, a wine merchant from Breslau. This paper examines the transformation of viticulture and estate management in the Tokaj-Hegyalja region of the Habsburg Monarchy during the 18th and early 19th centuries, following the confiscation of the Rákóczi family's vast estates after the failed Hungarian War of Independence (1703–1711). The Tokaj wine district, a major center of high-value wine production since the 16th century, experienced significant shifts in land ownership, labour organization, and trade patterns during this period. The study focuses on how the Royal Hungarian Chamber, having taken over 89 vineyards once managed by the Rákóczi dynasty, attempted to rationalize viticultural production, enforce regulation, and re-establish export markets – particularly in the wake of the collapse of traditional trade with Poland. It draws on detailed fiscal and estate records to trace changes in yields, price levels, labour costs, and institutional control. The findings highlight the limits of state-led reform and the challenges of adapting feudal estate structures to evolving market conditions. By integrating qualitative archival analysis with quantitative production data, this paper contributes to the broader historiography on early modern Central European rural economies and the political economy of wine.

Keywords: Tokaj-Hegyalja; viticulture; Hungarian Chamber; wine trade; early modern economy; institutional reform; state property (search for similar items in EconPapers)
JEL-codes: N13 N53 Q13 (search for similar items in EconPapers)
Pages: 37 pages
Date: 2026-01
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Persistent link: https://EconPapers.repec.org/RePEc:hes:wpaper:0293

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