River plumes as a source of large-amplitude internal waves in the coastal ocean

Jonathan D. Nash () and James N. Moum
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Jonathan D. Nash: Oregon State University
James N. Moum: Oregon State University

Nature, 2005, vol. 437, issue 7057, 400-403

Abstract: The waves beneath The mouth of the Columbia River on the Oregon/Washington border is the haunt of big-wave surfers, drawn by the prospect of 30-foot (9-metre) waves. But in the ocean waters beneath them waves as high as a 10-storey building regularly propagate into the North Pacific. Satellite images, and snapshots taken by local pilots and sailors, have recorded surface phenomena caused by these giant waves, but their mechanism of generation in the absence of steep ocean-floor topography has remained a mystery. Now a detailed study of subsurface water flow in the estuary reveals that these waves are produced by the river plume plunging into the ocean.

Date: 2005
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DOI: 10.1038/nature03936

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